Diamond shapes

Shape is the diamond’s outline when viewed from above. It affects the ring’s silhouette, how large the stone appears and how it needs to be protected by the setting. Cutting style instead describes how the facets are arranged.

Brilliant cuts and step cuts

Brilliant cuts use many triangular and kite-shaped facets to create a lively light pattern. Round, oval, pear, marquise and princess shapes commonly use a brilliant facet style, as do many cushion variations. Step cuts, such as emerald and Asscher, have larger parallel facets that create broad areas of light and dark.

Choose by appearance

• Round: even, symmetrical and brilliant-cut.
• Oval: softly elongated with a brilliant light pattern.
• Pear: one rounded end and a defined point.
• Marquise: a long silhouette with two points.
• Cushion: square or rectangular with rounded corners.
• Princess: a square brilliant cut with sharp corners.
• Emerald: a rectangular step cut with cropped corners.
• Asscher: a square step cut with geometric depth.
• Radiant: cropped corners and a brilliant facet pattern.
• Heart: two lobes, a cleft and a point.

Length-to-width ratio

For elongated and rectangular shapes, the relationship between length and width determines whether the stone feels narrow, full or square. The ratio is a preference, not a quality grade. View the outline at actual size before choosing.

Check the actual stone

• Is the outline symmetrical?
• Are rounded areas even and points well defined?
• Is there a dark bow-tie area, and do you like how it looks in motion?
• Does the setting protect exposed corners and points?
• Do the stone’s measurements suit the ring’s proportions and your hand?

GIA issues an overall cut grade only for standard round brilliant diamonds; other shapes do not receive one. The report’s measurements, polish and symmetry matter, but you still need to assess the outline and light pattern yourself.

See available diamonds or book a consultation to compare shapes on the hand.